|
|
|||
|
|
|||
|
|
|||
|
This
previously highly unknown range is located in the driest desert in the
world, in the Argentinean region of "Alta Catamarca". It is not
excessively difficult technically, but is a good challenge due to the
total lack of infrastructures in the area, the height, the volcanic
terrain and the solitude. The
first climb was made in 1937 by a Polish group (led by the same man as
the group which gave its name to the famous |
|||
|
|
|||
|
Type
of activity:
Expeditions |
|||
|
I
also recommend reading: Index
of the area Villages
and refuges Recommendations
Transports |
|||
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
Map |
2 Approach by car in Google
Earth |
3 Diagram |
4 Connection between the
approach valleys |
|
|
|||
|
SUMMARY |
|||
|
Difficulty:
A
climb walking at great altitude, extremely dry climate and often windy. Distances longer than they
seem. |
|||
|
Recommended material:
High mountain-expedition equipment. Crampons. |
|||
|
Best time:
November-March |
|||
|
Difference in level:
Base Camp-Pissis 2250m |
|||
|
Times:
For information only, as the conditions of the terrain and the personal
conditions can vary a great deal. We went to the area after
acclimatising for two weeks in "Las Grutas".
BC-C1a 3h15m C1a-C2a
2h15m First
night in C2a
C2a-C3
4h Second night in C3 C3-Pissis
8-10h Pissis-C3
2h30m Third
night in C3 C3-BC
3h |
|||
|
Map:
Carta
topográfica-Hoja 2769-34 Monte Pissis 1:100.000 IGM Argentino |
|||
|
Recommendations: |
|||
|
Waypoints
in UPS UTM/Datum WGS84 position format: The
waypoints must be a further aid, but never the main reference to guide
us, as a fault in the apparatus, run down batteries, any error in data
entry, poor cover etc, may cause serious problems. The best thing is to
have good orientation, know how to read the land well, have a good map
and also a good compass. BC
19J
0528490 6934390 Point
where there is the detour between valley A and B
19J
0527102 6934200 C1a
19J 0525611 6932818
C2a 19J 0524262 6931447
C2ab 19J 0523443 6931681
C3 19J 0522105 6931147
Mount Pissis 19J 0519818 6929982
|
|||
|
|
|||
|
OFFICIAL
HEIGHT |
|||
|
Although
it is officially the second highest peak in |
|||
|
|
|||
|
ACCESS
BY CAR (4x4) |
|||
|
You
have to go by 4x4 and must be experienced in driving on these kinds of
desert terrain, as it is very easy to get stuck in the sand. You need
to have knowledge of mechanics and carry a lot of spares just in case
(wheels, battery, fuel in drums, planks for getting the car out, more
water and food than necessary...). It is best to go there with at least
two cars as a breakdown could leave us some |
|||
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
5
Reaching our first camp |
6 View of the valleys on the
descent |
7
Google Earth diagram |
8 From the C2a (our first
camp) |
|
|
|||
|
POSSIBLE
CAMPS |
|||
|
We
will show the different options we have for making the camps, but
without a specific calendar, as each expedition’s strategy
may be very different depending on the group’s
acclimatisation, their physical and mental state, the availability of
water (C1), the time available and the weather. We recommend at least
8-10 days' acclimatisation before attempting the summit if no previous
acclimatisation has been done, and never to go straight to base camp
without acclimatisation at lower altitudes (different possibilities are
available on the way). If you have done some high 5000 or low 6000 on
previous days (thus getting to know the area better), it is possible to
go for the summit in 3 or 4 days, and one ideal place for acclimatising
is "Las Grutas". In any case, the best calendar will be determined by
our bodies, which will give us signs of good or poor acclimatisation
for continuing to climb, or tell us to wait a little and allow us to
adapt better before attempting the summit. The signs of poor
acclimatisation are obvious and we must not hesitate and descend
rapidly; rescues are slow and difficult in this area, and help might
reach us too late if our health worsens. |
|||
|
|
|||
|
ROUTE
FOR REACHING THE HIGH CAMPS |
|||
|
We
walk out of Base Camp (4600m) in the same direction as where we came in
by car (south/south-west), but we soon have to turn into a valley to
the right (west). We will climb up this valley until we come to a fork
(photo 3) to the left, we are left the valley we have called A and the
B to the right. The two small valleys are used to reach the base of the
Pissis glacier. Both allow us to establish a camp at around 5100m, and
the one in valley B is generally better for getting water easily, as
here the river passes that comes down from the glacier, although in
valley A we will always find some small patch of snow to get water. We
go up the valley to 5100m, and here there are places for setting up
C1a. We could continue along the small valley to the end where we would
turn right (dotted line on the diagram), but the route I will explain
is shorter and more often used. From 5100m we divert to the right and
start to climb; we have to reach a small pass to the right of a small
peak and flank this to the right (path remains), immediately coming to
a plain and we will have to cross a penitent river coming down from the
mountain. Just before this river, there is a perfect plain for setting
up C2a at 5300m, and during the day water also runs down at the end of
the penitent river. From this possible C2a, we continue crossing the
river of penitents on a plain that we will find at the end of the
glacier and maybe some river with water flowing down; we cross this and
can set up a camp that we now share with route B, C2ab at 5340m. We
climb up to 5100m where there is a possible esplanade for setting up
camp, C1b. Further on, depending on the state of the end of the
glacier, we will have to climb to the right, always to the right of the
edge of the snow, until we reach C2ab, for in the centre of the valley
we might not be able to climb the blocks of ice falling at the end of
the glacier. There
is no problem here, we climb up the side of the glacier and if the snow
is all right it is worth going over it, as the "acarreo" (lava flow)
may be awkward. We reach 5740m where there is a good, large esplanade
for setting up C3. In this camp we will not find liquid water, and it
is best not to move too far away from the ice as a number of trips will
be needed to get water. Further up there are no other more or less flat
places to set up camps until 6200m (both on the ascent and the
descent), but we do not believe that it is worth setting up a camp at
this altitude. The climb at this height with such a weight on our backs
is very hard and we would uselessly waste strength and have a much
worse night than at C3 due to the altitude. A climb of 1000-1100m per
day when attempting the summit is a good balance. |
|||
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
9 Summit-attempt day,
entering the glacier |
10
Final part, now at 6500m |
11 Writing the summit book |
12
Descent, crossing the river coming off the glacier |
|
|
|||
|
|
|||
|
There
are several options, which are all valid, but we will explain the most
logical and least tiring one both for climbing and descending. It is
best to leave one or two hours before sunrise to avoid the worsening
weather in the afternoon or anything unexpected. We leave C3 and go on
to the glacier; we must go round the lower peak to the left to come to
a small valley to the right, which we take us to a pass. Wherever
possible, it is best to pass on the snow as volcanic terrain is very
tiring for climbing (one step forward and half a step back...). When we
reach the pass behind the lower peak, we continue off towards the left
and will see what is left. The fastest way is to get through the pass
between the lower and the main peak to the left and follow the ridge to
Mt. Pissis, but there is also the option of going straight on to go to
the pass between the Pissis and the National Police and then going on
to the left, but this is a longer option and it is not as easy to find
the peak this way. |
|||
|
|
|||
|
DESCENT |
|||
|
On
the descent, we follow the same path as we came up, but will pass the
lower peak to the left, and will thus go down tracks on fast, scree
terrain. The path goes round slightly to the north, and when we reach a
plain, it is best to continue eastwards to the edge of the glacier,
from where we will see the tents, and the fastest way is to go down by
the “acarreo”. If you wish, you can also go down
the snow route we climbed, but this is not as fast. |
|||
|
|
|||
|
|
|
|
|
|
13 Crossing a small field of
penitents to reach C2a |
14 Laguna Verde and Pissis
from around the Pissis balcony |
15
Laguna Verde and Pissis |
|
|
|
|||
|
Different names we can find along the route |
|||
|
|
|||
|
|
|||
|
Date
of information:
2007 |
Date
of the route:
Christmas 2006 |
||
|
|
|||
|
|
|||
